photos

To see photos of the trip, go to this link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/farmerrirene/India1?feat=directlink

There are 4 India albums, go to the My Photos on the upper left of the photos to see the other albums. 

end of the road

I finished out my trip with dinner at Pete and Solvi's house last evening (Tuesday evening Delhi time).  In case some of you don't know the connection, Pete is the brother of Paula, who is married to my brother Clay.  The evening was very nice, great food (and I didn't have to worry about what might not be safe to eat!) and wonderful company.  We ended up chatting about traveler's tales we've read and other books.  Getting there was a little bit of fun.  The person at the desk at the hotel said they could not call a taxi, so I walked down to the train station and haggled with a guy there.  After we agreed on a price, I asked him if he was going to be my driver.  He looked a bit affronted and told me, "I am the owner".  Then when I saw the car I was going to ride in, I had to laugh.  There were some decent looking cars there, but I got the one held together with baling wire and the slightly surly driver who did not know where he was going but would not take any help from me.  But it all worked out, he got us to the general vicinity and then asked directions a couple of times.  I had an easy ride home, Solvi sent me with her driver.  What a fun way to wind up the trip!  When I got back to my hotel, I went up on the rooftop for a little bit but it was a bit chilly, and there was a faint aroma of....how shall I say this delicately...poop wafting up over the rooftop from below. 

No time at all on my layover in Taipei, our flight was a bit late arriving so I walked from one gate to the other and on to the next plane.  They fed us dinner almost right away, then I took a couple of dramamine and slept about 5 hours.  Then it was time for breakfast! (I'm telling you, the non US airlines feed you pretty well). 

Took forever to get my checked bag full of Indian goodies and then I got out and Clay was there waiting to drive me home.  I'm eating peanut M&M's for dinner as I type this.  I should go to bed but I'm not quite ready for that yet.

I'll post a link on here for the photos in the next couple of days.  Thanks for reading this blog, it's been a blast writing it.

airports

I am at the Delhi airport, waiting to board my flight.  I got here in plenty of time to check in, go through immigration and security and still have time to eat and browse.  The security in the Indian airports is taken very seriously.  They are very polite but also very thorough.  They have screened off areas for women to be screened, which is kind of nice.

The bathrooms have the option of a western toilet or an Indian one-distinguished by a drawing on the door as to what type is inside the stall.  Toilet paper is provided, what a luxury!

I just heard my flight called, so I'm going to get off here and head over.  If there is internet available in Taipei, I may jump back on again.

Nearly journey's end

I flew into Delhi this morning from Udaipur, got a hotel in the Paharganj section, which is not great.  Oh well, live and learn.  I have been traveling light this entire trip, and now I have an extra bag, filled with stuff I've bought to bring home.  That really affects my flexibility.  When I got to the hotel I had picked sort of randomly from the guide book, it was not great, but I was not willing to hoist that extra bag around looking for something else.  So there you have it.  I read someplace recently that the enjoyment of travel functions in inverse proportion to the amount of baggage one has.   I know I"ve loved having a small pack and daybag and being able to walk comfortably as long as needed with them. 

I'm going to Pete and Solvi's house for dinner tonight (Paula's brother and sister-in-law-Paula is my brother Clay's wife).  I wish I had a gift to bring but what could they possibly want from here that they don't already have?!  So I am afraid I go emptyhanded.

Had lunch at the Club India, doesn't that sound interesting?  Well, it wasn't really.  This section of Delhi is full of touts and filth.  Every few seconds as I walked down the street, someone wanted to walk along and chat, but of course they really wanted to sell something.  I have resorted to ignoring them or being downright rude.  I told one guy today that I just wanted to walk by myself and turned and went in another direction. 

But then I went down another street and suddenly the touts were gone, just regular folks living their lives.  I ended up in what I'll call the upholstered furniture section-lots of blocks of foam, fabrics, men sewing and gluing, then on the other side of the street, men stripping and refinishing some dining chairs.  Then I went down an alley that smelled very ripe, the source of which turned out to be a HUGE compost pile of rotting food plus other things, I'm sure.  Shacks made of wood scraps and old, torn and dirty fabric, people living as basic as it gets.

I'm off to clean up for dinner.  I don't know if I'll post anything tomorrow, so you may not see anything until I get home.  The funny thing is I leave Delhi tomorrow at 2 pm and get to SF at 6:30 or so the same day, just 4 1/2 hrs later by the clock, but I'm doing the time travel thing, and will be flying to Taipai ( 4-5 hrs) and then to SF (11-12 hrs).  No doubt I'll be fresh and perky by the time I get home, but I'll try to post something just to say I made it safely. 

silly things to ponder

Will I ever be clean again?

Will I ever NOT be thirsty again?

Why is it ok to bare one's midriff but not one's shoulders?

Who teaches children to say "one pen" every time they see westerners?

Why do we keep trying to homogenize the world?

Hay un bano por aqui? doesn't really work here.  Trust me on this.

How is it that my clothes are clean after being washed in that nasty dirty lake?

I miss ice cubes most of all.  I thought it would be meat, but I don't really miss it. 

Had a long walk through countless streets today, love the markets where the locals go!  I'd tell you what I bought, but a few of you might then know what you're getting for Christmas.  Off to clean up for a dinner date, for this I even bought a skirt!   

other travelers

While India is a big country, the westerners who come to visit often visit specific locations, such as Varanasi, Jaipur, Mumbai, etc.  So what happens is you sometimes see people you have met earlier in the trip again.  In my case, that was partly because I changed my itinerary based on some ideas from other travelers.  So in Bundi I ran into both Philip and David again (see previous posts).  One evening I went to a show with them and Ana from Hungary and Mia from Belgium.  We stuffed into one tuk tuk and went out of town about 2 kilometers to see various performers.  The crowd was primarily Indian, but they had set up special areas for tourists, right up front.  It felt a little strange!  The show was interesting, although I don't think I need to see another one.  One highlight for me was a young woman who sang, accompanied by a sitar player and two hand drummers -not sure what their actual drums are called.  Anyway, she had an awesome voice, although the amplification was turned up to distortion level.  At one point some african style dancers from another area of India (they migrated from Africa long ago) pulled a couple of tourist girls up on the stage with them.  In the US this would have been no big deal but I can't help thinking it further diminished our standing with the locals.  Not my problem, just seemed a little out of place.  Then at the end they did some fireworks.  Fireworks are big during this time, for Divali.  Most of the time you just hear very loud booms and don't see any pretty fireworks, as I guess the sound is meaningful on it's own.  Let me tell you, it also meaningful when you are lying in bed and a sonic boom goes off outside your window.  Just maybe a different kind of spiritual experience than the Indians intended.

At any rate, while I am loving traveling alone, running into friendly westerners is also a nice respite from the hustle of India.

dung and sugar cane

No visit to the Palace Hotel unfortunately, they are currently not taking any bookings for dinner unless you are a guest of their hotel.  That costs something like $400/night for the rooms without a view, and I'm not willing to pay it, so no James Bond experience there for me. 

Today I am off to the bazaars to do some shopping.  I have only a couple of days left in India, and so I'm going to buy a cheap suitcase/bag and stuff it with treasures to bring back with me.  The area around my hotel is very touristy and has lots of shops that cater to tourists but they are not the ones I want to shop at.  Yesterday I discovered by accident the Mandi Market, and saw some interesting things.  For instance, I was wandering aimlessly down little side streets and came upon a home where an old woman was sitting out front working with something that at first glance looks like clay, to make some jug shaped things that are open at the top and bottom and have a small rounded hole at the bottom as well (I took pictures that will explain this much better).  Anyway, the man came out and from our combined gestures and a few words, it appears these are used for cooking.  The sort of 'mouse hole' at the bottom is where they put the sticks or other fuel and the pot sits on top.  Also, after looking around a bit more, it was apparent that this device is molded from dried and reconstituted manure, with some additives, I am sure.  I also saw chapati makers made of cow dung.  Also saw patties (hand formed, mind you) of cow dung drying to be used as fuel.  No waste!

Then as I wandered on, I came to another open area where a lot of women were working on weaving with split stalks of sugar cane, making baskets and other implements.  One man sat there splitting the canes with his machete.

Everywhere I went down those streets, the children and some of the women wanted me to take their photos, not for money but just to see them.  One group of women asked me to take their photo, which I did, then I showed it to them, and they laughed and chattered!  So fun.  Everyone said hello, or good morning, or one pen.  While I am careful of my pockets and bag, I felt safe walking through those streets.

So wish me luck, I'm going to go take a tuk tuk and find some other shopping areas near by the Mandi Market.

I have a flight to Delhi on the 10th, and am hoping to have dinner with Pete and Solvi that evening.  I hadn't emailed them yet as I just firmed up my final days' plans.  I can't believe it's almost over already, I just got here and just got my feet on the ground.

morning in Udaipur

My room in Udaipur has 32 light/power switches and that doesn't count a whole other panel in the bathroom.  For some reason this is the norm so far, and most of the switches don't actually operate anything.  The master switch is outside the door of the room, so if you have left for a while, they will turn off the power.  They know you have left because the locking system is large padlocks and if you are inside you would use the deadbolt inside, but the padlock would not be on the door.  They also don't explain this to you, you just figure it out when you come back and there is no power.

Up this morning at dawn, not by choice, but now that I'm up, I came out on the roof top to look at the lake.  The city center is a lake, around which there are ghats, temples, palaces and other buildings.  For those who are James Bond afficionados, this is where parts of Octopussy were filmed.  I'm going to dinner tomorrow evening out on the island at the Palace, minimum charge 3,300 rupees just to go there to eat!  The Monsoon Mansion high up on the hill was also used, it was the villain's home in the movie.

This morning is the first time I've used my fleece jacket on this trip, other than in the airplane.  But it did not stay cool long.  This is the furthest south I've gone, but I'm not really clear on the weather patterns by location here anyway.  And since my wardrobe choices are distinctly limited, I just get dressed and then find out how much I'm going to sweat today.

This city is referred to as the Venice of Asia.  If it weren't a sure path to an accident, I'd rent a motorbike and ride around town.  But between me being distracted by looking around, and oddly placed holes in the road, other drivers and pedestrians, I am not going to even consider it.  I'm hungry but apparently no one else is because nothing seems to be open yet.

Sweat, pee and water

Dennis always used to say 'traveling is hard work' and it is. It's also rewarding, but there has come a time in every journey here in India where I am soaked with sweat, uncertain what to do next, tired, hungry or have to go to the bathroom and wondering why I want to do it the hard way! Then again, I am not sure there is really an easy way here. When you are that hot, you want a lot of water, but when you are trapped on the bus, you don't want to feed the other end of that process-trying to put it delicately, sorry if I offend!

Took the train from Bundi to Chattargarh then whooshed over to the bus station via tuk-tuk and got a seat on a bus leaving right away for Udaipur. No time for food or bathroom, oh well, it's only 2-3 hours, right?

The train ride was lovely, through countryside being farmed mostly with manual labor. I saw women in saris threshing long stalks of grain, and oxen pulling some sort of plow. Very neat.

I was dripping sweat when I got on the bus, and until it moved, there was no breeze. To add to the fun, you would not believe how many people you can cram on a bus if you really want to. I was in a front seat on the 2 seat side with another westerner. Across the aisle in the 3 seat side, there were 3 women and 3 children. The aisles were jammed with standees most of the trip. I kept doing the bobble head thing, which perhaps was some sort of entertainment for other passengers.

Someone asked how I'm feeling. It started out as a wicked cold, now just the usual, so I'm ok. No tissue to be found in any stores so I keep a roll of toilet paper with me. I brought 2 with me, but they are long gone, but at least I can buy that here.

Off to explore now that I'm settled, showered, bladder emptied and fed.

Bindi in Bundi and moving on

It's afternoon in Bundi, I'm up on the roof top. There's a boy flying a kite on another roof top in the near distance, the tuk-tuk's horns are making music of a sort and up on the hill, on the road out of town, a tractor pulling a LARGE load of loose hay or straw is sharing the road with everyone else.

I'm sipping a Coke,heading down to the festival to see what's happening. As I write, I catch a glimpse of the henna on my right arm and it makes me smile. The process was fascinating, and the situation just so much fun. The woman who runs the hotel with her husband did it, right behind the front desk, while their 2 year old daughter sat up on the desk and bindi'd a couple of tourist guys who were on the other side of the desk. Meanwhile the husband got me my train ticket for the next leg, and answered some other tourists' questions patiently, called and ordered a tuk-tuk and helped keep an eye on his daughter. The family is very nice and interesting to watch how they work. I did not ask, but presumably they had an arranged marriage. They seem to partner very well together.

On to Udaipur on Friday-at least I think that's what day tomorrow is. It's hard to keep track.

time and being alone

Time goes by so quickly on trips like this. You spend a fair amount of time figuring out your next move, and how to get there, finding a place to stay, eat, blog, and whatever else you want to do. You have to think of that stuff as part of the experience, not just the means to an end. There are so many places to go, each having it's own draw. But I did not want to race around constantly, changing hotels every day so I've moved every 2 or 3 days. Plus the traveling itself, whether by bus or train, is tiring and generally at least partly a grind. I can see where that part might be easier with a companion. But I do like wandering the cities on my own. I suppose, if you were traveling with someone who was willing to be on their own part of the time, that would probably be the best of both worlds-that's assuming you can agree on where to go!

As has happened before, I already can't wait to plan my next trip. This is addictive!! It's hard to describe the allure of going places I've never been and seeing things I've never seen, but it's something I hope to be able to do for many years to come.

I have been talking with fellow travelers and I hear about how much vacation time most of the rest of the western world gets-wow. They all seem to get at least 6 weeks and that's without any seniority on the job. We Americans definitely don't have the work/life balance thing pegged.

I heard a lot about how tough it is for a woman to travel alone here before I came. I was a bit nervous about it, because I heard so much. However, it's definitely doable. Sure, you get hassled, and stared at, but other than my first hotel, I have felt safe everywhere I go. I get tired of the looks, but I remind myself that I'm an intruder in their world, and I take breaks either in my room or the rooftop or some other place when it starts to make my cranky.

Also, I have met some other travelers who I hope will become friends. I guess some part of my dad has rubbed off on me. I strike up conversations with other travelers if they look at all willing to chat when I am in a restaurant, or a bus or train. Sometimes it's just where are you from, where are you going, we share our views of the places we've been so far (that's how I heard about Bundi) and how long you're in India for. Often we don't even trade names. If I was not on my own, I would be less inclined to chat like that.

Thank you everyone for your comments, it's helpful to know someone is reading this!

Bundi

Today is the first day of a festival in Bundi, and it began this morning up the hill at the entrance to the old palace, which is amazing. I don't know how they built these huge things into a rock wall so many years ago! At any rate, the festival. They laid down some large colored fabric. Picture an old cobbled road made from large rocks, not very many of which are flat on the surface. Then lay a cloth over it so you can't see where you are stepping. OSHA would have a field day. Anyway, there were many notables at the event, with elaborate turbans and a small band that consisted of a bagpipe player, a flute player and drums. Then there were prayers and chants as more participants gathered, some of which were dressed in costumes, plus more bands. Then eventually the procession began it's way down the hill and through town. Us tourists were all taking photos, but no one seemed to mind. This town is not on the tourist trail for westerners, so they are welcoming and nice. In fact, this whole town is a pretty nice place. It still has quite a bit of trash, but no beggars!! and my hotel room is clean and comfortable. I even have hot water. There are almost no restaurants in town except for the roof top ones associated with the guest houses. The one I am staying in is a haveli-a converted old home, very nice. The center of the 2nd and 3rd floors is open with a grate to the ground floor, which allows light and air all through the building. In these older cities, everyone built very closely together, so the ventilation is much better with this setup. The rooftops are sort of like the back yards of America. The family that runs my hotel is a young couple with an 8 yr old son and a 2 yr old daughter. They both speak english and are very helpful. The wife did henna on my right arm, not sure if it will last til I get home but it's cool to look at now. While she was doing my arm, her daughter, who loves to 'bindi', was putting henna on a couple of tourist guys who were sitting nearby. The little girl has little flower designs on the top of her feet, which her mom had done for her.

I'm heading down to the festival grounds this afternoon, after the heat of the day has passed, and may get a little shopping done. I only have one more city after this one, other than Delhi. I don't think I'll get to Delhi in time to do much shopping, so I think I should get started. I've enjoyed having little baggage thus far, but will probably pick up a bag here or in Udaipur to carry some 'stuff'.

Train to Chattargauh (sp?) in the morning, then via bus to Udaipur. I hope to get a flight from Udaipur to Delhi, or failing that, a sleeper train.

pockets and bus rides

Both of my pairs of pants have extra pockets that either zip or snap closed.  Like most foreign travelers, I have a system.  The bottom left pocket is for 500 rupees notes, the bottom right is for 100 rupee notes and the top right is for small bills and change.  That way you don't flash a wad every time you buy a bottle of water.  The top left pocket is for kleenex, thanks to my cold.  I'm Rudolph right now and the tissue here is none too soft.

Then there is either a money belt around the waist or the neck for travel days and some people also have a belt with a zipper compartment or socks with a pocket.

Important stuff goes in the little day bag.  Clothes and things I can live without go in the pack.

I rode from Ajmer to Bundi today on the bus, the only tourist and I can see why.  We stopped a lot.  a lot.  And since I did not know a) how long the stop was or b) who I could ask, I just stayed on the bus.  I bought some food through the window though.  A girl who was traveling with her older sister and others came back to the seat beside me part way through the trip to chat with me.  She speaks little english, and it's different than any I've heard before.  For instance "wayona" is what is your name.  So anyway, we traded names and she told me she was13 -I think.  I could not understand where she lives but she invited me to come home with them.  She signalled her big sister and a little boy who is some sort of relation back to meet me and shake hands too.  Another business card from Sonoma Bank is now residing in an Indian home. 

Ajmer and begging

When you wake up at 4 or 5 am, there's not a lot to go and do.  It's dark until about 6:30.

I went out last night to look for food and enjoyed the tramp through the markets.  This town is heavily muslim.  Khwaja Muri-ud-din Chishti settled here in the early 13th century.  He was a highly regarded muslim Indian who at the age of 13 gave his inheritance to the poor and adopted a pious and simple life as a Sufi fakir.  He believed that there was one higher power, and that the different religions were material manifestations of the same, thus promoting tolerance and unity between Hindis and Muslims.  I am no student of Islam but this is different than anything I had ever heard of.  Anyway, apparently the feeling is that this attitude still prevails in this area today.

I haven't written much about the beggars.  I think India is famous for them, and rightly so.  They are everywhere, particularly at central locations such as temples, mosques, railway stations and tourist areas.  There are different schools of thought regarding what the appropriate response is to them.  Regardless of what one decides, the sight of people so disenfranchised is wrenching.  In Pushkar, there was a man without some or all of each of his hands and feet, rolling about on the ground right in the street.  I don't think a few rupees from me would make any difference but it is hard not to be affected.  The old woman over on the curb with her hand out is someone's mother.  And the dirty little children whose hair looks as if it has never been brushed, barefoot with dirty, torn clothes and a dark look in their eyes-they are probably hungry.

If you give to them, are you perpetuating a habit that will keep them from other possibilities or are you helping them eat their next meal?  Or are you giving money to their 'pimps'?

If you refuse, are you being a cold hearted rich bastard or are you avoiding a con game?

None, and all, may be true, and each person decides for themselves.  It is hard to look at them, but for sure it's harder to be in their shoes.

I'm in Bundi now, a delightful small town where people are actually friendly, they say hello constantly, not just kids either.  This is a first so far on this trip.

important things

The place I am staying at tonight in Ajmer is called the Haveli Heritage Inn, or something close to that. The guide book liked it and it was close to both the rail station and the bus stand. The book had mentioned that Gandhi and Nehru had both stayed there. Well, it turns out that the room I am sleeping in was slept in by Gandhi!

I found this out because that room also has (had, I hope!) a mouse, who ran over the top of my foot.

And, the owners have a dog who looks sort of like a german shepherd who also is a mouser.

I only hope my little visitor does not return tonight. I am going imagine it several times in the night, I am sure. I wasn't sure if the owners would see a mouse as any kind of big deal, so I sort of casually walked out into the courtyard area where the wife was watering plants. I was happy to see her respond immediately! So because I was standing out there while the husband and the dog unsuccessfully mouse hunted in my room, I heard the wife and another guest discussing which room Gandhi slept in and it is mine.

I'd say I was glad for the mouse, but that would be a lie. I HATE rodents. I know they exist but I prefer to live in blind ignorance.

By the way, Paula, I haven't found any little Buddhas yet, but I'll keep looking.

Do overs

One of the things about travel is sort of like an evening when you have more than one party to go to. Sometimes you end up leaving a great party to go to another one, and end up regretting it. But you never know til you know.

Arriving in Ajmer was a grind-hot dirty city, bad traffic, polution and trash. Just like all the cities so far I guess. The railway station was packed, had to shoulder into the mass and then just go with it, pack on my back and daybag in front.

The train ride was about 5 1/2 hrs, and the first 3 were great. The train was fairly empty and I saw some beautiful country. There is no glass in the windows of the 2nd class non AC, which I was in, so I got a nice breeze too. Then we got to Marwar Junction and changed directions and suddenly I was going backwards. Some of you know how car sick I get...not fun. The train filled up too, so no chance to change positions. Anyway, chunks contained! Wishing I'd stayed another day in Jodhpur, but too late now. I may change my itinerary yet again. I've changed it at least twice so far.

You may have already read about India's railway stations, how people just seem to camp out or live there. They sleep in the middle of the floor, usually on a blanket or rug, but not always. In addition, everything is filthy and sticky, the restrooms are abominable and you have to watch your back. Other than that, it's a piece of cake! So far in my limited experience, the bus stations are easier to deal with, they remind me of central American bus stations, except the people are not generally as helpful. I'm hoping to get to Bundi tomorrow, which means I need to go to the bus station today to scope out the options. First I have to go back to my hotel to check in. They said they were having a lunch break and asked me to come back in an hour. But since they let me leave my pack there, I didn't mind, I was hungry anyway.

I'm thinking I'll need a vacation from my vacation when I get home.

The fort and blue city

I went to the fort yesterday, it was quite amazing. The structure itself is built into the rock and then towers high above. It has never been taken over in an attack, due to the way it was built. One thing they did was make the approach to the main gate so that there is a 90 degree turn just before the huge gates so that the enemy could not get up momentum with any kind of ramrod. The purdah sections were very interesting, the screens are hand worked metal screens each with it's own design. There is an audio tour, so I could wander at my own pace. At one point I was sitting on a rock step and an Indian family came by and asked if they could take my photo! Then they wanted a photo of their daughter with me. What a hoot! Very nice people, nice contrast to much of what I've run into here. Went down from the fort by way of the old 'road' laid with huge stones, through some of the blue houses. Interesting stuff.

Felt kind of puny during the day and by evening was in trouble. I went to dinner with Philip and Valerie, and felt like I was going to pass out. I did not want to let on that I was feeling so bad so I tried to tough it out. Didn't want the evening to end, but felt so bad. Long night, fever, sore throat, light headed. Better enough today to get on the train. I don't like feeling sick in a strange country.

Philip is the man who rode in on the same bus, we ended up at the same hotel, and did some exploring in the markets. Valerie is a 70+ year old woman who is traveling on her own! Very nice people. Both are from Englad, but now Philip lives in Australia and Valerie lives in the US. On to Ajmer...