Layers work better in California

What a difference a few degrees make.  I went to the Kremlin this morning, in a biting wind, and temps around 5 degrees Celcius.  (Kevin, I know you are laughing at me now)

I had on two shirts, my fleece jacket and my windbreaker/rain jacket, and it was not enough. I know I grew up in Alaska and northern Wisconsin, but my blood has gotten used to California.  I at least had the sense to laugh at myself.

The Kremlin is a very large, very well kept fortress, and of course we only get to see a small portion of it.  In fact, the only buildings you can go in are the churches.  Note that going inside buildings was a priority for me today.  I invented all kinds of reasons on and off all day to pop in a store (see below).  Anyway, back to the Kremlin.  I had read that the Ivan the Great Belltower was not to be missed, and that it required an extra ticket.  But when I inquired about it, I  was told that it was closed today due to the wind.  Oh well.  I would have had to sit through a 45 minute presentation in Russian (no other languages offered) if I had gotten in, so maybe not so bad.  But warm, it would have been warm.

The surprising thing about the proliferation of churches inside the Kremlin walls is knowing the prior view of the Communist state regarding religion. I know that it is now tolerated, and in fact I am surprised at the number of people I see praying at churches I have visited, but during the Communist era at least, religion was heavily discouraged.  I am surprised that the cathedrals are still there, and that the old paintings, murals and icons still exist as well.  In the Assumption (Dormition) Cathedral, you can see where the Tsar and Tsarina sat, and there are several patriarchs' tombs around the church.  The custom seems to have been to paint various religious figures and scenes all over the walls, archways and ceilings, and these have very high ceilings.  Some of the pictures use a sort of tin.  One of the paintings I saw dates from the 1400's.  Supposedly when Hitler was advancing on Moscow, Stalin ordered a secret service in the cathedral to protect the city, so perhaps there was some residual belief that prevented the destruction of the trappings of the Orthodox Church.

Along the front of the Kremlin, the Alexander Garden is beautiful, with fountains, plantings, and wide boulevards for strolling.  Fortunately I was there on a warmer day, because I did not linger today.  There is an amazing world underground, and on a day like today, that was helpful.

I alternated walking above ground, below ground, in stores, stopping for coffee and taking the Metro all day.  I wanted to see ul. Arbat, or Arbat Street, a pedestrian street with artists, musicians, and of course lots of shops.  I took the Metro, but as usual had trouble geting oriented when I got up top.  When I got to the street, I began stopping in cheesy souvenir shops every block to view yet more nesting dolls, because the stores are WARM.  I mean really warm.  Earlier in the day I went to a book store (ok, more than one), and I got so hot inside all my layers, it actually felt good to walk outside for about 5 seconds.

I am sitting in my room typing this, while the other people who live here are fighting in the kitchen.  It's in Russian, so that lends a bit of privacy in spite of the thin walls.

I am meeting Catherine, Sabine's cousin, tomorrow late morning, and tomorrow evening I get on the train for Almaty, and then on to Urumqi.  I am certain I won't have wi-fi on the train, so thought I would give you the scoop now about my next few days.

Almaty is in Kazakhstan, and I will be on the train for 3 nights getting there.  Apparently it is quite a distance.  Hence the visit to the bookstores today.  I hope to meet people on the train, but I think I will have plenty of time for reading too.  I will be in Almaty one night, going on the next to Urumqi, China.  The reason for the one day delay is that the train to Urumqi only goes twice a week.  Since I will be transiting back through Almaty when I leave China, it should be helpful to have already gotten the lay of the land.  I do not have a hotel there, just figure I will find something close to the train station.  

I have a little phrase book, so I can learn how to say hotel in Kazak.  Also since Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan both are former Soviet republics, a lot of people speak Russian.  Not that I do, but I do have the alphabet almost down.  And I know how to say thank you, and count to 8.  What more could I need?

I am riding in a four person sleeping compartment, which could be really good, or not so much.  I am really uncertain how much to worry about securing my bags, but I doubt I can do a lot anyway.  I will keep my money, passport and electronics in my day bag, and money belt, and I'll carry those with me always, including sleeping with them.  Beyond that, if someone wants my dirty laundry or toothpaste, I am unwilling to worry too much about it.  

I tried to exchange some of my dollars for some Kazak and Chinese currency here, but none of the exchange places seem to have anything but Russian rubles, Euros and US Dollars.  

I think my entry into Almaty and into Urumqi are the two most intimidating parts of this trip.  I will be sure to let you know how it goes.