to walk where they walked

I'm making a rough circle in my route through Uzbekistan, ending back in Tashkent for one day before flying to Istanbul. Due to that, and the yurt stay/camel ride, I left some of my things at Gulnara Guesthouse, where I stayed the past few days, and will stay again when I complete the circle. Traveling extra light and loving it. I don't recall who to attribute this to, but I concur - the level of enjoyment in travel is inversely proportionate to the amount of baggage you bring.

I am unsure about availability of cash for the next couple of places, so I exchanged $300 US today. The resulting wad was about 10 inches thick. So much for traveling light!

Makes me wonder how ancient travelers did it, when the only form of money was metal coins, or goods. Speaking of ancient travelers, Ibn Battuta once passed this way. He was a traveler originally from Tangier, in northern Africa. He left home in 1325, and traveled far, writing about what he saw.



I dropped my stuff and headed out to explore what is known as the Registan, comprising three madrassas, one of which was built by Ulug Beg, the grandson of Timur (Aka Tamerlane). Ulug Beg's actual name was Murzu Muhammed Taraghay bin Shahrukh and he is famous for his interest in and developments in astronomy, geometry and related fields. Aside from the place being blanketed with vendors, it is beautiful. Some of the towers have taken on a lean, but being as old as they are, it's a wonder they are still standing.

This was the commercial center of the city when Buttara would have passed through, with six streets intersecting and silk road merchants and travelers doing what they do today. Then, of course, they were traveling on camels and donkeys, staying in caravanserai, and gathering in the markets for news as well as goods. No internet, just word of mouth and a few hard to obtain books.

Until ships usurped their place, the caravans traveling this road were the  only way to get goods such as silk in the West, and to do so meant traversing deserts and mountains. It wasn't just one route, of course, it varied with weather, seasons, lack or abundance of water, and human intervention such as war, politics, or bandits. Cities were born, prospered and died based on these influences along the route.

This is the history that fascinates me and the reason for coming to western China and especially to Uzbekistan.