to do list

Today was a day of errands. It seems odd, but there are things that must be done even in this life of leisure. Most things take about four times longer than they would at home, and each task may involve several attempts prior to successful completion.

On the list for today: get more US dollars, print out a Mozambique visa application, confirm my safari, get Kleenex and Halls cough drops, and if possible, find an English language bookstore.  Pretty utilitarian, but each task involved places I did not know of, and other than the safari item, none could be done without venturing out into Tashkent.

First, a fun conversation with a French couple and a Swiss couple, who are all staying here too. I think each of them spoke at least three languages.  I was dallying too because it was right brisk outside, somewhere around freezing, and of course I am still ill prepared.

To get US dollars, you must go to the National Bank of Uzbekistan, go to a special window with your passport and a credit/debit card.  Not too hard once you find the one location where this can be done.  Finding a place to print something was harder but eventually I stumbled onto a place. I rewarded myself with a coffee break after these early successes (around noon). By 2:30 all but the books were checked off, and I've given up on that one for now. I hope to find one in Istanbul tomorrow.

I was on the metro on my way back to the hotel and I decided to veer from the path and see if I could find the one (yes, one) UPS location in all of Tashkent. This involved a bit of help from a friendly police officer. Amazingly, it was right where the map said it would be. The difficulty was that as you come up on to the street, there are always several exits, and no way to orient yourself directionally. With almost no street signs, and overcast skies, I come out of the ground unsure which way I'm facing at first.

After some discussion at UPS, I headed back to my hotel to pick up the items I wanted to ship, and to stop for some Som in exchange for some of my fresh new dollars.

As before, it felt like I was purchasing crack. As I came past the corner where someone is always calling out "dollar", "change money", "madam, how much you want", I hoped that today would be no exception. And there he was. We haggled for a few moments, and I was soon the proud owner of another wad of currency. I raced to the hotel for my items and two metro rides back to UPS.

By the time I got back it was a little after 5, and they close at 6. I knew they were not going to be happy to see me that late in the day. It turned out we had to go through each individual item, which felt intrusive to this spoiled American. I felt a little foolish after the transaction was complete, because we had argued over some of the items, which the woman at UPS said I could not ship. So who knows what will actually arrive. My load is slightly lighter, but I'm not sure I made a good impression on America's behalf. No diplomatic posts await me, I suppose.

The day was cold, but the metro is warm, sometimes uncomfortably so. I went from chilled to sweating in minutes.

I can't understand the announcements, but I have learned that the very last word spoken by the announcer at a station stop as we pull out is the name of the next station. I might not actually hear that either, but I can usually tell if it "sounds like" the one I need. Also, as I get on, I figure out how many stops until mine, and I keep track with my fingers as we move along. So far no one seems to have caught on to my code. The transfers were the hardest part, because I can't read the signs well enough, and more than once I've discovered I was headed for the exit rather than the other line I need. At 1,000 Som a ride, it's a cheap mistake anyway (about 33 cents).  Alas, it appears I am done with Tashkent's metro, just as I was getting it down.

I fly to Istanbul in the morning, and I have a taxi coming for me at 6:15. Good by to Uzbekistan.