Friday

Mr. Grumpy has his eye on me so I don't have the nerve to download photos right now.  Not that there is anything wrong with doing it but I am sure I don't do it the most expeditious way.  Maybe later today.  It's Friday, so lots of things closed today.

I took the Metro to Coptic Cairo this morning, the name given to an area where the indigenous Christians gather for worship on Sundays and Fridays.  The existing buildings are built on top of old ones but some excavation has been done and you can go down into the old streets in some places, where people walked more than 2,000 years ago.  There is a Greek Orthodox Church, a convent, a Coptic Church (they have their own pope, so sort of like Catholic?) and even a synagogue here.  I arrived at what is known as the Hanging Church as a service was in progress, so I stepped in the back.  The first thing that registered was that I was standing on the men's side-they sit separately as in Jewish synagogues.  Most of the women had their heads covered.  So I moved over behind the women and pulled my scarf out of my bag.  No one seemed to mind me being there and I was able to sneak a few photos.  It's an amazing building with a lot of detailed and intricate wood carving.  The doors themselves are astounding.  There were some school girls that came in while I was standing there and a couple of them came up to me smiling and asked my name.  People sort of came and went throughout the service.  The priest (?) actually performed the service in an alcove in the front so only if you were standing in the middle could you see him.  I eventually tired of waiting for the service to end and left, and wandered in the other churches and cemetary.  Then I strolled into what's called Old Cairo where I felt less than welcome.  However, not threatened, and I did not want to give up and go back, so forward I went.  Just put on my 'I know where I'm going' look.

Back to the Metro then, and a teenaged girl offered me a kleenex as I stood on the train.  I wasn't sure what she intended I do with it (no, no snot dripping) but to be polite I took it and said thank you.  Then I saw her wipe her face with one and followed suit, blotting some of the sweat.  I guess my sweaty red face gave me away.  Anyway, little unexpected kindnesses everywhere.

I was starving by then and nothing open due to Ramadan and Friday to boot.  I went to Hardees-I know, but I was hungry.  Then I walked by the US Embassy, would have loved to go in but they don't just let you drop by for tea, so I kept walking.  Taxis hooting constantly, things must be really slow for them today.  Most shops are closed during the day, but after about 8 pm, everything opens and everyone is out shopping, eating and carrying on as if it is the middle of the day.  This is due to Ramadan, or so I'm told.  They sort of switch day and night when they can, because they must fast from dawn to dusk.  I get hungry every 3 hours or so, I can't imagine going all day for an entire month.... and I am drinking a lot of water.  No one expects tourists to fast as well, but the polite thing is to not eat or drink in front of those who are fasting.  So I feel a bit furtive, walking down the street, looking for an alley so I can pull out my water and take a slug.  Kind of funny, really.
Eventually got tired and realized I was near this internet place so here I am.  I'll get back on later, inshallah, and upload some photos and tell you more about my hotel, which oozes character.