I have the feeling of moving to a more remote and slightly less amenable place. No greeting unless doing business with me, and then no smile. I have been warned to carry my bag in front, watch for theft more times in the half day I have been here than in all the days in Berlin, London or in Belgium. I am assuming they speak the truth.
Going to change money felt a bit like a smuggler's run. Yesterday my host accompanied me to a money changer so I could pay him in Zlotys, the Polish currency. Today I went back and changed the rest of my Euros and some dollars for some Russian rubles. Seemed like a lot of money to get back 8,000 rubles, but once converted to dollars, it is not so much. So now I have dollars, zlotys and rubles. I have had to make a separate place for each type of currency so I don't pull out the wrong kind.
The sense of personal space appears to be shrinking too as I move east, which I was forewarned about. It felt odd to have strangers come up directly behind me as I stood at the money exchange counter, and when walking down the street, it is nothing to bump and be bumped, with no acknowledgement forthcoming. I have to remember not to take offense when clipped from behind and then ignored. It's just the way of things.
I am going to try to describe the underground warren of life here in a future post, along with the extensive indoor space above ground. I have to assume it comes of long harsh winters, but I do not know. It may be that the underground is a result of the Second World War, I will try to find out.
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