There was one other non-Indian on the bus today and when we got off there was a mob of tuk-tuk drivers waiting (auto rickshaws are called tuk-tuks here, like in Thailand). He was being completely mobbed, I had picked one right away because he offered me a ride for 10 rupees. I felt sorry for him and offered to share mine, which he did. His name is Philip and he and his wife are from England but live in Australia. He's on a 2 1/2 month trip in India.
I went to the clock tower, the center of town here and then wandered around the streets. The main market starts at the clock tower but goes into mazes of streets around it. It is a lot like the winding narrow streets in Tangier, this place has a sort of Arab flavor to it anyway. I saw several women in burkas or something similar (snuck a couple of photos) and the spices and other things in the market place seemed more arabic to me. The town has old walls and it encircles the fort on a very large rock, really amazing thick walls with 5 or 6 gates. Some of the old walls have been torn down over the years, and of course the city has outgrown the walls anyway. I am going to visit the fort first thing in the morning before it heats up too much. It's 90 + and I am wearing long sleeves, pants and a scarf at all times. I could take 3 showers a day and not stay clean, but I don't have that many clothes anyway. Only 2 pairs of pants and 3 long sleeve shirts. I did pick up some shampoo today at the market and figure it can double as laundry soap.
I got totally lost going back to my hotel-another town with winding streets and no regularity to how it is laid out. I wandered a long time as it grew dark and finally resorted to asking shop keepers for directions (they seemed more likely to know english and not likely to follow me down the street). I knew as a last resort I could stop a tuk tuk, but I could just picture them charging me a ridiculous amount of money and then going around the block and stopping in front of my hotel. Turns out I was within about a block of it at one point in my meandering.
Jodhpur is the city that jodhpur pants are named from, at least according to my guide book. In case anyone wants to know, this town is on the eastern fringe of the Thar desert. The city is known as the Blue City for its many buildings painted blue. This originated from some high caste Brahmin homes mixing indigo in with whitewash when they painted their homes, as they believed it helped deter pests and kept it cooler. I guess it became a fad and there are quite a few blue buildings in town. It's lovely to look at. I'll post more pictures another day and show you. The fort was established in 1459 and it is absolutely massive from down here. I am excited to explore it tomorrow. I have no other plans other than wandering the streets some more. Love this city! I video taped a bit of the blue bldgs and the fort while the call to prayer was sounding this afternoon, hope it turns out.
Tyler, if you're reading this, I'm seeking out the perfect cricket bat for you! In this town, sidewalks exist but are for marketing or store expansions, everyone walks in the street, which is another game of chicken. Speaking of the streets, I am enjoying the game of 'cross the street'. It is really quite fun! If possible I line up down wind of some locals and just follow their lead, but lately I've been brave enough to strike out on my own, and so far have been successful! I guess if I hadn't been, you might not be reading this.
If anyone wants to know about anything in particular, please post a question in the comments, I'd love to tell you stuff you're interested in. Thanks for reading this, otherwise I'd just be talking to myself!
I'm here in Jodhpur until Monday, when I am taking a morning train to Ajmer, then hoping to catch a bus toward Bundi. One never knows how that may work out, but I'm fairly certain I'll find a place to lay my head one way or another.
Hi Irene,
ReplyDeleteCatching up on your adventures and photos. Wow! You are really brave! Photos are amazing! Gives me a whole new appreciation for the basic necessities here in the USA for sure. Stay safe - I'll be keeping you in my prayers :)
Off to take a hot shower now.... :)
Take care, Lori C.
Sounds very interesting and please won't whack the cows!! The crowded conditions and poverty sound very much like what I've read of rural and urban India. Imagine raising a family under those conditions and yet people do it and it would seem they enjoy their life.
ReplyDeleteI continue to look forward to your posts, I check several times a day to see them as soon as they come up so keep them coming. I read them to Lola and it's been a fun experience for her to realize not everyone has the same experience in life that we do.
Much love, Clay
I'm really enjoying your posts. I finally found a moment to read all of them, so far. I Look forward to more.
ReplyDeleteLaura
Huh, blue deters pests? Like rats? How neat that must be....a blue city. Great posts Irene and I am glad you are experiencing India. Christine
ReplyDeleteWhat a traveling experience you're having, Irene - this is engaging reading (my first blog experience!). Your photographs are wonderful, almost feel like I'm there. The colors, the faces (glad you threw in one of yourself - you actually look quite clean), is that what feet look like after a lifetime of no shoes?
ReplyDeleteLet me know if you want to be picked up at the airport, I'd be very happy to do that,
Teri
Just got your blog address this morning and have been devouring your every word. This brings back so many memories ... you are a much braver girl than I was!
ReplyDeleteWonderful photos. I can almost smell the aromas and feel the heat ... my almost is a long way from your reality. :)
Achha,
Vicky
Oh Irene, this is wonderful! I'm becoming accustomed to reading your posts just before bedtime each night - much like when I was a child and my grandmother would read to me. Your words are so vivid that I feel as if I'm right there with you. Glad to hear your instincts are intact, and was hoping you'd have an encounter with a cow, and am glad to hear it didn't become a "mishap". Travel safe and keep writing! This is so much more exciting than Santa Rosa!! xo Christy
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